Cane & Canoe
The coconut wireless was buzzing: Chef Chris Damskey, formerly of Alan Wong’s Amasia restaurant, and more recently of ‘Ulu Ocean Grill at the Four Seasons Hualalai, was coming back to Maui. The combination of his return, some menu changes, and Pineapple Grill alum Robert Barrera as new chef de cuisine, I knew that the latest iteration of Cane & Canoe would be great. I gather friends and head to Kapalua, where a family-style tasting ensues. We make short work of the Australian wagyu steak and eggs, served with first-of-the-season truffle gravy brimming with caramelized Maui onion and mushrooms. I can’t get enough of the sublimely sweet and creamy parsnip purée, served in lieu of potatoes. Another offering, tender slices of grilled pork belly and poached eggs atop spinach salad, comes napped with a bright yet delicate liliko‘i vinaigrette. The rich yolks meld with the dressing, creating an over-the-top umaminess of sweet fruit, salt and perfect acidity. Fresh juices and a make-your-own Bloody Mary bar with fresh smoked bacon, celery and other accoutrements round out the brunch menu. Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Drive, Kapalua, 662-6681
