Breakfast on the Sunset Side

Last issue, we shared some of our favorite East Maui breakfast spots. If it dawned on you that West Maui must have great breakfast locations, too, you’ll be pleased to know we agree. Here’s a second helping of venues that will keep your sunny side up.

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Story by Becky Speere

pioneer inn breakfast
The veggie eggs Benedict is a treat for sailors and landlubbers alike.

Pioneer Inn Grill & Bar

I moved to Maui in 1983, and still remember my first meal in sleepy Lahaina. Deep-sea fishing was on our agenda, so the obvious choice for breakfast was Pioneer Inn, just a stone’s throw from the harbor. Built in 1901, the inn is the longest continuously operating hotel in Hawai‘i. Hollywood legends Katherine Hepburn and Spencer Tracy stayed here while Tracy was shooting the 1961 film The Devil at 4 O’Clock. Ever since my own debut appearance at Pioneer Inn, I’ve order the same dish each time: lox and a toasted bagel with cream cheese, capers, onions, a thick slice of tomato, and a cup of piping hot Maui coffee. If I have company, I also share the plate-sized macadamia nut pancakes. One day I’ll break down and try the Mowie Wowie three-egg omelette with jack cheese, pineapple and Portuguese sausage; or the classic loco moco with Maui Cattle Co. beef on rice with eggs and gravy. If I’m not going out on the water, I’ll allow myself a Bloody Mary, as well. With a sweet-and-salty spice rim, it’s the perfect accompaniment to lox and bagel; plus the celery stick is a healthy, fiber-filled addition. I’ll bet Tracy and Hepburn would approve! 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina, 661-3636

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