Where Legends Leap

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Where Legends Leap

The Sheraton Maui’s nightly cliff diving ritual at Pu‘u Keka‘a carries Hawaiian tradition into the tides of tomorrow.

by Ariella Nardizzi

Sheraton Maui Resort and Spa

At the northern edge of Kā‘anapali Beach, a spine of jagged, ink-black lava rock rises from the shoreline and juts into the Pacific. Pu‘u Keka‘a, or Black Rock, is believed to be one of three leina – portals to the afterworld – on the island.

The promontory marks a boundary between two worlds. Torches flicker against the falling light every evening at sunset as a barefoot diver lights his way to the rock’s edge, tosses a flower lei into the sea and leaps 35 feet to the water below.

The Sheraton Maui Resort has hosted the nightly lele kawa, a traditional Hawaiian cliff diving ceremony, since 1963 to honor one of Maui’s most storied figures. Chief Kahekili, Maui’s last ruling chief and a fierce warrior of the 1700s, once made the same jump.

Kahekili, whose name means lightning, popularized the practice of lele kawa as a test of bravery and strength. Legend says he hurled himself from cliffs 200 to 300 feet tall to earn his warriors’ respect, but Pu‘u Keka‘a held special significance because of its spiritual connection to the afterlife.

Thomas Thompson, who goes by TC, knows the weight of that responsibility. Thompson lives in Makawao and has worked for Tihati Productions for 25 years, moving up from line dancer to cliff diver in 2018, and now production director.

“Our culture was almost extinct,” he said, recalling a time when fewer than 500 fluent Hawaiian speakers remained. “This cliff dive connects us to the great Kahekili, but it’s also about understanding the respect between two worlds – ours and the afterlife.”

The 10-minute ceremony begins each night before sunset. The pū (conch shell) blows in four directions to pay respect to all corners of the earth. A hula dancer moves with mesmerizing grace while the voice of a revered kumu (teacher) booms across the beach, narrating the story of Kahekili.

The diver races barefoot up the sharp, slippery volcanic rock, lighting each tiki torch along the ridge on Maui’s westernmost lava flow. Reaching the top, he offers a lei to the waves – a gesture of respect to his kūpuna (ancestors) – before diving headfirst into the darkening sea. For a liminal moment, his body suspends between time and tide against the smoldering sky. Then, he disappears beneath the lapping waves.

The current rips deceptively hard beneath the surface, and divers must navigate the leap with skill and courage. “It’s exciting to dive in front of hundreds of people. Sometimes the nerves come in, but it’s a good exercise in building courage like Kahekili used to do,” Thompson said.

But the ceremony isn’t just about showcasing athleticism. Thompson feels an immense responsibility to preserve the culture of his elders. Many of the divers are second- or third-generation cliff jumpers whose fathers and grandfathers dove from the same place. They carry the same generational torch up Pu‘u Keka‘a, cherishing the connection to their past while educating visitors about their heritage.

Over 60 years, the ceremony has evolved. It began as a simple dive and now draws crowds of hundreds along Kā‘anapali and the Sheraton Maui with narration, chants, hula and music – all tools to deepen understanding for those who watch.

“Any visitor who experiences Hawaiian culture is able to leave with a lot more love and respect for it,” Thompson said. “We’re carrying our culture on our shoulders by preserving the connection between the past and now.”

Just as it has every night, the sun will dip low outside the Sheraton and the torches will spark to life once more as another diver carries the legacy of their elders. The generational torch will keep burning, one dive at a time.

Sheraton Maui Resort and Spa