Pele
Fire, Myth & the Fountains of Today

story by Chris Amundson
photographs by Travis Morrin

The night sky above Hawaiʻi Island glows red. From the rim of Halemaʻumaʻu crater, lava fountains shoot hundreds of feet into the air, at times soaring higher than 1,000 feet, illuminating the clouds and casting a molten reflection across the land. Visitors gather at safe overlooks in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, their faces lit by the glow. For Native Hawaiians, it is not only a spectacle of nature but a sign that Pele, goddess of volcanoes, is alive and moving once more.

Her story has been told for centuries in chant, hula and legend. Pele is at once creator and destroyer, fierce and generous, feared and beloved. She traveled across the islands from her birthplace in Kahiki, leaving marks on Kauaʻi, Oʻahu and Maui before settling at last in Kīlauea. To understand today’s eruptions is to see them not as random geology but as part of a long arc in which Pele shapes the land and speaks to her people about respect, resilience and balance.

Hawaiian tradition remembers Pele arriving on Maui before crossing the channel to Hawaiʻi Island. Her digging staff tested Haleakalā’s slopes and left behind cinder cones and the stark lava fields at La Perouse. But Maui was not her home. Chants recall Maui as a boundary, a place where Pele passed through before finding her dwelling in Halemaʻumaʻu. Her final journey carried her to Kīlauea, where she remains today.

History records moments when Pele’s presence was unmistakable. In 1790, during the wars of Kamehameha I, Chief Keōua Kūʻahuʻula led his warriors across Kīlauea’s slopes when Pele erupted with explosive force. Ash rained down, suffocating hundreds of men, their footprints preserved in the cinders. For Hawaiians, this was no accident – it was Pele intervening in human affairs, clearing the way for Kamehameha’s rise and the unification of the islands.

Through centuries, her story has been preserved in chants such as Aia lā ‘o Pele i Hawai‘i, which proclaim her dancing at Maukele, consuming Puna and flashing in the heavens. Hula performers embody her fiery energy with strong, grounded movements. These performances keep alive the truth that Pele is not a myth in the Western sense but an akua – a living force – whose power continues to shape the land.

Today, that power is on vivid display. Since late 2024, Kīlauea has erupted in spectacular bursts, sending lava fountains high into the air. Unlike the devastating 2018 eruption that destroyed more than 700 homes, this activity is contained within Halemaʻumaʻu. Scientists call the pattern unusual – eruptions that pause and restart in cycles, with fountains reaching heights unseen in decades. For locals and visitors alike, it is mesmerizing, a chance to see creation in real time.

The experience of standing at the rim is visceral. The earth rumbles underfoot, the air smells of sulfur and strands of volcanic glass – Pele’s hair – drift on the wind. Families watch quietly while cultural practitioners leave offerings of ʻōhelo berries, lei and gin. For many, the sight is both thrilling and humbling: Pele is walking, breathing, dancing.

A self-timed astrophotograph reveals Kīlauea’s glowing caldera beneath the vibrant Milky Way – a rare convergence of clear skies, an active volcano and a new moon.

Maui-based photographer Travis Morrin, who has made Kīlauea his second home, says the draw goes beyond the spectacle: “Sometimes I’ll take just a few photos and then sit for hours, because I love to simply be in the volcano’s presence. It has a creative and transformative energy – you’re literally watching the island grow before your eyes.”

What she is saying is left to interpretation. Some kanaka (native Hawaiians) believe Pele is reminding us to respect the ʻāina, the living land. Others see her contained eruptions as a gift – a display of beauty without devastation, a chance to witness her power safely. Still others read her activity as a call for balance, whether in the way people live on the land, treat each other or prepare for the future.

At Keanakākoʻi Overlook, spectators gather in reverant awe as Pele’s fiery fountains light the caldera – the park’s closest view and an unparalleled opportunity for photographers to capture the eruption’s intensity.

On Maui, Pele’s story is remembered in the island’s landforms, but her presence today feels closest on Hawaiʻi Island, where Halemaʻumaʻu glows with fire. To witness it is to feel history stretching from Keōua’s fallen warriors to the chants of hula dancers to the families watching the fountains today. Pele is here, speaking as she has always spoken, through lava and creation. The meaning of her message is left to each of us – but the reminder is clear: the land is alive, and so is she.

Captured during blue hour, the scene glows with deep reds and purples.

Photo Tips from Travis Morrin
Chasing Pele with a Camera

Travis Morrin has photographed nearly every episode of Kīlauea’s recent eruptions. His advice for anyone hoping to capture Pele’s fire:

• Prepare for the weather – Volcano nights can be wet, windy and cold. Pack rain gear for yourself and covers for your lenses.
• Bring a tripod – Essential for long exposures and low-light shots of glowing lava.
• Use the right lenses – A wide angle to capture the landscape and a mid-zoom (70-200mm) for closer detail.
• Chase the blue hour – The 20-30 minutes before sunrise and after sunset create the richest reds, purples and blues against the glow.
• Be patient – “Sometimes the best photo is the one you don’t take,” says Morrin. “Sit, watch and let Pele’s presence sink in.”
• Respect the place – Pele’s home is sacred. Approach with humility and remember you are photographing more than scenery.

For prints and photo tours: TravisMorrinPhotography.com

How to See Pele’s Fire from Maui

Getting There

Flights:
Hawaiian Airlines & Southwest fly daily from Kahului (OGG) to Hilo (ITO) and Kona (KOA). Hilo is closer to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park (45 minutes by car); Kona requires a 2+ hour drive. Roundtrip fares usually $120-$180.

Mokulele Airlines offers more flexible interisland service from Kahului (OGG), Kapalua (JHM) and Hana (HNM). They use 9-seat Cessna Caravans for scenic low-altitude flights. Fares often $100-$150 each way. Hilo flights are best for volcano viewing; Kona flights are more frequent but farther from the park.

Rental Car:
Reserve in advance. From Hilo Airport, it’s about a 45-minute drive up to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. Rates $50-$70 per day for compact cars.

When to Arrive
Daylight & Night Glow: Arrive by mid-afternoon to explore overlooks and stay until after sunset for the full glow.
Crowds: Evenings draw heavy traffic; parking fills quickly.

Where to Drive
Crater Rim Drive: Loops past Kīlauea Overlook and other pullouts with direct views of Halemaʻumaʻu.
Chain of Craters Road: Longer route through older lava fields, ending at the coast.
Safety: Stay behind railings; volcanic gas and unstable ground are serious hazards.

Costs

Roundtrip airfare: $200-$300
Car rental: $50-$70 per day
Park entry: $30 per vehicle (7 days)
Lodging (optional): $150-$250 per night

Pro Tip
Pack warm layers – the summit can be chilly even while Pele’s fire burns bright. Bring water, snacks and patience: she decides when and how she will show herself.