Tops of the Morning


Jaws Country Store

The sun is at its zenith when I realize, after feeding my hens and harvesting avocados, that I haven’t eaten since rolling out of bed. A five-minute drive down Hāna Highway, and I’m at my favorite local café, Jaws Country Store. Executive Chef Koa Taylor greets me with a cheery hello. I feel family-style warmth — and a little confusion: Do I order the savory and juicy Maui Cattle Co. beef brisket bahn mi, or eggs? I opt for the latter, and soon two perky and perfect poached eggs appear at the pickup counter, jiggling atop sautéed mushrooms, onions, and thick-cut smoked bacon with a spread of bright herby basil pesto on artisan sourdough. I sit at the mango-wood bar under the eaves of the store, although the umbrella-covered picnic tables on the big lawn share the same cool breezes. Fresh honey lemonade, not too sweet, complements the rich, open-faced breakfast sandwich. 4320 Hāna Highway, Ha‘ikū, 419-6887,


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