Kitchen Kin
At Hotel Wailea, Chef Cruz fosters innovation in the next wave of culinary artists
story and photographs by Chris Amundson and Ariella Nardizzi
Chef Ryan Cruz’s journey in the kitchen has always been about more than nurturing the flavor of a dish. For him, it’s about nurturing people, from his global culinary experiences to the fine dining establishments of Hotel Wailea.
Adopted from the Philippines at age 3, Cruz grew up in southern California’s Anaheim Hills. His passion for cooking ignited while helping his father and grandmother prepare meals for family events. After graduating from Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Los Angeles, he landed his first kitchen gig as a prep cook at CUT by Wolfgang Puck in Beverly Hills.
There, Cruz soaked in every lesson. He stayed late after shifts, peeling radishes and studying the chefs’ technique and command of the kitchen. “As a young chef, I was hungry for the chance to prove myself. I wanted to do everybody’s job better than them,” Cruz said.
His dedication eventually paid off. Cruz spent the next 10 years traversing the globe, learning fine dining culinary techniques in London, New York City, Los Angeles and Istanbul, where he met his wife, Jaila. His talent in the kitchen led him to become a private chef for celebrity clients such as Oprah Winfrey.
Cruz and his wife found their way to Maui, where Cruz became chef de cuisine and later, executive chef for The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, The Birdcage and the poolside cabanas. His aspirations as leader of the kitchen, however, revolve around the success of his staff.
In November 2024, eight Argentinians worked in the Hotel Wailea kitchen with Cruz for three months. He patiently taught them how to use a peeler, chop vegetables and be in a professional kitchen. This year, four returned to work again on one condition from Cruz: Bring him a recipe from their homeland and teach him how to cook it, with the goal of refining and adding their own creations to the menu.
“In my kitchen, it’s a learning and creating environment. Accolades don’t mean as much to me as seeing the next generation of chefs move on to do their own big things,” Cruz said.
Maui’s seasons inspire Cruz’s menu for the various fine dining establishments around the hotel. The spice, vinegar and acidity of his watermelon agua chile combats the heavy, summer heat on the island, especially when paired with local kanpachi for a summer treat.
In contrast, a decadent carrot purée fills the body with warmth during the wintertime. Serve it with white, flaky snapper with crispy skin, or a heavier meat such as lamb or pork.
The chef also finds joy in discovering creative ways to plate his meals. His dishes play with negative space, micro greens and the ways in which a purée’s color, texture and flavor can influence the palate.
For Cruz, the kitchens of Hotel Wailea are a place for culinary innovation, fostering his legacy through the people that work in them and the dishes they create. “My kitchens are my children,” he said.
Ahi Crudo with Watermelon Agua Chile
For the avocado mousse
1 avocado, diced
1 tsp red onion, minced
1 ½ tsp cilantro, chopped
1 tsp parsley, chopped
½ tsp sugar
1 pinch black pepper, ground
1 tsp lime juice
Salt, to taste
Cool off on Maui with airy ahi crudo topped with a refreshing burst of watermelon. The spicy, tangy kick from vinegar and chile complements fresh, local kanpachi for a bold, island-inspired bite.
Purée all ingredients with a hand blender until smooth. Season with salt. For storage, keep avocado pit with mousse to prevent oxidation.
For the agua chile
3 oz ahi tuna filet
1 seedless cucumber, diced
2 jalapeños
½cup lime juice
¼ cup water
¼ cup white onion
¼ tsp green Yuzu kosho
½ cup watermelon juice
½ cup cilantro
Salt and sugar, to taste
Blend cucumber, jalapeños, lime juice, water, onion, green Yuzu kosho and watermelon juice until well incorporated. Add cilantro and blend until smooth. Season with salt and sugar.
Cut raw ahi into thin slices. Season with a pinch of flaky sea salt. Serve over agua chile and top with dollops of avocado mousse.
Serves 4-6
Pan-Seared Uku with Spiced Carrot Purée
Chef Cruz showcases his creativity with a lush, garden scene of micro greens and vegetables akin to Maui’s green landscapes. Sweet, fermented black garlic sauce lightens the earthiness of spiced carrots for a warm wintertime dish.
For the spiced carrot purée
1 Tbsp olive oil
¼ cup shallots, minced
1 Tbsp garlic, minced
1 cup carrots, diced
½ tsp toasted cumin
¾ tsp toasted cilantro
1 cup oat milk
Salt, to taste
Heat olive oil in a small pan over low heat. Sauté shallots and garlic until soft, about 2-3 minutes. Add diced carrots, cumin, and cilantro, and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Pour in oat milk and simmer until carrots are tender. Blend until smooth and season with salt to taste.
For the black garlic purée
4 cloves black garlic
1 Tbsp chicken or vegetable stock
Blend garlic and stock until smooth. If mixture doesn’t blend, add 1 additional tablespoon of stock until blended.
For the goma sauce
¼ cup tahini
3 Tbsp soy sauce
3 Tbsp mirin
3 Tbsp rice wine vinegar
3 Tbsp sugar
⅓ cup mayo
1 ½ tsp miso paste
1 ½ tsp dashi powder
2 tsp sesame oil
Blend all ingredients together until thoroughly mixed. Adjust consistency and flavor as needed, adding more soy sauce or sesame oil for extra richness.
For the vegetables
½ tsp sesame oil
½ cup baby bok choy, blanched
½ cup broccolini, blanched
¼ cup spinach
½ tsp white sesame seeds, toasted
Salt, to taste
Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sesame oil and sauté the bok choy, broccolini and spinach until golden brown, about 3-5 minutes. Toss in 1-2 tablespoons of the prepared Goma sauce and sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds. Add salt and more Goma sauce to taste, if desired.
For the uku
1 4 oz uku or any fresh catch
Season uku with regular kosher salt. Heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering, then sear uku for 2-3 minutes per side. Place uku over spiced carrot purée and black garlic purée. Top with vegetables tossed in Goma sauce and flaky salt.
Serves 1
Classic Beef Wellington with Prosciutto
A taste of classic British cuisine is a rare gem on the Pacific Islands – but one Chef Cruz has perfected. His secret? Pair it with a rich, indulgent red wine sauce.
For the mushroom duxelles
2 cups ground button mushrooms
2 Tbsp shallots, minced
1 Tbsp garlic, minced
1 ½ tsp Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp butter
1 Tbsp VSOP brandy
½ cup heavy cream
1 ½ tsp coarse sea salt
¼ tsp black pepper, ground
Season mushrooms with salt and pepper and let sit for 30 minutes to oxidize. Melt butter in a medium saucepan over low heat until bubbling. Add shallots and garlic, and cook until translucent. Stir in the Dijon mustard and allow it to bloom for about 30 seconds before adding the seasoned mushrooms. Cook the mushrooms, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is dry and browned. In a separate small pot, heat the brandy to cook off the alcohol, then add to mushrooms. Stir in cream and season as needed. Cook on medium to low heat until mushrooms are soft and tender, about 1 ½ hours.
For the bordelaise sauce
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 small shallot
2 cloves garlic
1 cup dry red wine
2 cups beef stock
½ tsp thyme
Salt and pepper, to taste
Heat olive oil in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add minced shallots and garlic and stir until golden brown. Add red wine, scraping up any browned bits, and simmer until reduced by three-quarters. Stir in beef stock and thyme, then simmer until slightly thickened. Strain the sauce, discard solids, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
For the beef wellington
1 8-10 oz beef tenderloin
1 Tbsp olive oil
2 sheets 8×6 inch puff pastry sheet
1 egg
1 Tbsp cold water
1/3 cup mushroom duxelles
6-8 slices of prosciutto
Heat oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Sear the beef tenderloin on each side until browned on all surfaces. Allow the beef to cool slightly.
Whisk the egg with cold water until well combined. Lay out the puff pastry sheets on a flat surface and brush the edges with egg wash. Place the prosciutto slices on the pastry in a single layer, overlapping each slice by about one-third. Spread an even layer of mushroom duxelles over the prosciutto.
Place the seared beef tenderloin on top of the mushroom layer and carefully roll it up in the pastry, sealing the edges with egg wash. Bake at 425 for 15 minutes. Let the Beef Wellington rest before slicing. Serve on top of the bordelaise sauce.
Serves 1-2
