Reimagined resort lounges, spritz-hour traditions and champagne with caviar captivate Maui diners
By Carla Tracy Dining Editor
Additional reporting by Mona de Crinis
COOL NEW LOOK … Named after Hawaii’s state fish, Humuhumunukunukuapuaa is a mouthful, and worth every bite. Always the classic Maui seafood restaurant with its Polynesian-hut design set on stilts in the middle of a salt-water lagoon, the reimagined flagship restaurant of Grand Wailea, A Waldorf Astoria Resort is even better than before.
Walk past waterfalls amid art installations and a sophisticated palette of bamboo, wicker, and metal mesh enlivened with color. Set your drink on the Tihany Design circular aquarium bar teeming with little Nemos and other tropical fish. Then indulge in an impressive array of seafood towers, juicy prime steaks and oyster and caviar selections.
Tihany Design dreamed up Humu’s one-of-a-kind aquarium bar, where you can sit and experience an array of drinks, including The Grand — the iconic signature Mai Tai expertly crafted by longtime bartender Scott Dalton.
“Humuhumunukunukuapuaa offers a truly one-of-a-kind guest experience featuring Maui’s only bartop aquarium. Enjoy innovative cocktails and meet the tropical fish who swim while you sip,” said Executive Chef Ryan Urig. “Some of my favorite creations include the spectacular seafood towers filled with the fresh sustainably sourced seafood such as Kona Prawns, Kusshi and Kumumoto Oysters, Dungeness Crab legs and Royal Petrossian Caviar, and our bone-in shutome accompanied by beluga lentils and shisocurry chermoula.”
With an eye towards culinary wellness, Executive Chef Ryan Urig enjoys partnering with Hawaii pelagic fisheries and local farmers as part of the 5-star resort’s ongoing sustainability program.
LA DOLCE VITA … On a previous visit, Ferraro’s was like a film set. A-list actor Adam Sandler dined at the table as kids shyly approached him for autographs. Whales jumped offshore, and outrigger canoes paddled toward Molokini.
Although there were no celebs around this last time, it was “la dolce vita” — the sweet life — anyway. Viewing ocean action from Ferraro’s perch atop Wailea Beach was epic as usual. Taking it over the top was the glass of Italian red paired with a simple margherita pizza and fresh kampachi Amalfi crudo with lemon salsa, watermelon radish, Calabrian chili cucumber and Acqua Pazza.
Just like Grand Wailea, Four Seasons Resort Maui also reimagined its flagship oceanfront restaurant. Cushy sofa groupings greet guests at the piazza entrance. Walk under a teak trellis to the new marble-topped bar complemented with custom bar back display and tiled bar face. Italy meets Maui, for sure.
“Our intent with the new design and layout was to open up the space, connecting it both to its beautiful surroundings as well as to the hotel itself,” said Adam Goldstein, partner and design director of Studio Collective responsible for the redo. “Our vision for Ferraro’s evolution embraces the soul of the island, integrating contemporary sophistication with a welcoming, residential charm.”
Four Seasons Executive Chef Ryan Schelling and Ferraro’s Chef de Cuisine Russell Rummer wow with tableside caviar service boasting whipped mascarpone, egg yolk, chive, fried caper and pasta fritti; king crab and burrata ravioli with butternut squash; and Pesce Intero Alla Piastra of roasted whole fish with olivata, herbs and grilled lemon. All pastas are house-made.
A meticulously curated wine list features the most extensive selection of Italian wines on island. Sample varietals from more than 30 Italian wine-growing regions and 10 coastal Mediterranean regions or relax with a generous assortment of after-dinner amaros (Italian liqueurs), presented and served tableside.
Combining the best of Maui and Italy, the reimagined Ferarro’s promises a joyous culinary experience for both returning guests and a new generation of diners assured Four Seasons Resort Maui General Manager Ben Shank.
A CUT ABOVE … The latest offering from culinary trailblazer and multiple award-winner Chef Peter Merriman, Ulu Kitchen by Merriman at the Westin Maui Resort and Spa recently opened its oceanfront dining experience in Kaanapali.
Keeping with Chef Merriman’s overarching farm-to-table credo, Ulu Kitchen sources fish, beef and coffee locally and Maui-grown fruits and vegetables as available. Among these is ulu itself, also known as breadfruit. This “canoe crop” was brought by those who first came to Hawai‘i in their wa‘a, and has deep historic and cultural roots.
Want a taste? Try the prime filet mignon with sautéed mushrooms, ulu mash potatoes, herb butter, arugula and rosemary french fries or taste the wild with Maui Nui Venison served with saffron rice, golden raisins, green beans, roasted poblano and guajillo adobo sauce. For gifts from the sea, you can’t go wrong with Ulu Kitchen’s macadamia nut catch of the day or lobster ravioli with lemon brown butter, spinach, basil-marinated laulea farm grape tomatoes and cornbread croutons.
SAY HI TO PIE (AGAIN!) … Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, West Maui’s popular sweet shop and “glorified grandma comfort food” hub favored by residents and visitors alike, is back open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Having recovered from the wildfires that tore through Lāhaina last August, Leoda’s once again offers scrumptious baked goods, including famous pies like Olowalu Lime, Chocolate Mac Nut and Coconut Cream, and delicious takes on classic dishes and sandwiches found only at its plantation-era eatery in Olowalu. Working directly with island providers, Leoda’s delivers customers the freshest, most sustainably sourced product possible.
Old Lāhainā Lū’au on Lāhainā’s Front Street has reopened after fire repair. At Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, Kylee Okazaki and Head Chef Eric Purugganan offer Olowalu Lime and Coconut Cream pies.
Also reopening this year, Old Lahaina Luau invited the public’s return to its ocean-view venue on Lahaina’s Front Street to experience an authentic luau showcasing traditional Hawaiian music, dance, food and cultural presentations. Owned by parent company, Hoaloha Na Eha, Ltd. which also operates Leoda’s, Old Lahaina Luau currently runs Tuesday through Saturday after months of repair from fire damage.
“After an inspiring Unity March on Jan. 20 and a private blessing of our employees and property the following month, we feel reopening Old Lahaina Luau is finally warranted,” stated the managing partners.
Aloha Mixed Plate, a third Hoaloha Na Eha, Ltd. restaurant, reopened next to the luau — serving plate lunches, salads and sandwiches daily from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Another West Maui restaurant reopening its doors of late is Mala Ocean Tavern — the first Lahaina Front Street restaurant to do so post-fires. As all staff were and continue to be impacted, Mala Ocean Tavern is still accepting donations through its GoFundMe account. You can also support this plucky business while enjoying some of the best locally sourced seafood delights on island, such as Māla’s renowned Ahi Bruschetta featuring seared ahi served with flaxseed toast, edamame and local tomato drizzled with olive oil and balsamic.
GRAB-AND-GO GOURMET … Looking for something sexy to serve at a private beach picnic on or as an intimate feast in your hotel room? At Maui Prime Fine Foods in Lāhainā, gourmet food lovers may pick up a bottle of, say, Moët & Chandon brut and pair it with freshly shucked Kusshi oysters with mignonette.
“And we’ve got live Maine lobsters, very sweet, and Oscietra caviar, which is live Russian sturgeon stock,” said store owner and founder Cary Button. “It has a firm texture, unique glazed sheen, intense creamy taste and a lingering nutty flavor. Our new caviar purveyor is world-famous chef Thomas Keller and his company, Regiis Ova Caviar. We get all the different grades.”
Champagne and caviar! Now we’re talking, any time of year. But if bubbly and sturgeon eggs aren’t your cup of tea, perhaps the Kobe beef from Snake River Farms, the A5 Japanese Wagyu and the prime Porterhouse steaks that are selling like hotcakes at Maui Prime Fine Foods.
“We have a lot of people under one roof with decades of culinary experience and can cater pretty much anything that you want,” continued Button, who also operates adjoining Oyster Seafood with his wife, Karin.
Supplying top Maui restaurants and resorts for over 40 years, Oyster Seafood specializes in “the freshest, most glistening oysters that your money can buy,” Button said. Additional varieties include Fanny Bay, Belon, Pacific, Royal Miyagi, Shigoku, Kumamoto and Chelsea Gems.
A bountiful display case features seasonal and specialty cheeses, such as Fromager d’Affinoise double cream brie, truffle gouda cheese and St. Agur French blue, offered Maui Prime Fine Foods’/Oyster Seafood’s Will Hawkins, a certified chef as is Button. “We’re super excited to help with your dining plans,” he said, adding that Retail Manager Christine Gillis is “a veritable wealth of cheese information.”
GOOD VIBES GALORE … Whether it’s the homemade slow-rise pizza dough fermented for 72 hours and baked in an authentic Italian oven, or the airy focaccia bread weighted in flavor only, Point Break Pizza & Panini at Maui Harbor Shops is Mā‘alaea’s laid-back go-to place for sandwiches, salads and, of course, pizzas.
Head Chef Sam Hatfield, who hails from Italy, boasts decades of dough making. Paired with General Manager/Owner Mark Lehman, former Hyatt Residences’ food and beverage director, it’s a culinary venture bolstered by a shared passion for food, connection and ohana.
Go old-school with tried-and-true favorites like Margherita and Carbonara with bacon, white sauce and other traditional toppings, as well as distinctive offerings such as Da Transplant (red sauce with kalua pork, Canadian bacon, red onion and grilled pineapple), White Caps (white sauce, roasted garlic, portabella mushrooms, caramelized onions and arugula) and Freight Train Supreme (red sauce, pepperoni, fennel chicken, bacon, red onion, peppers, mushrooms and black olives).
Not in the mood for pizza? Indulge in a warm focaccia with honey butter, the Rochetta Salad with honey-lemon vinaigrette or one of several panini options — all of which come with or on Point Break’s signature house-made focaccia bread. Sub-gluten sensitive wraps are also available on panini.
OUR PAL JOEY … You can now savor Chef Joey Macadangdang’s culinary innovations in Central Maui at his new Filipino-Spanish fusion restaurant, Balai Pata, in Kahului. Delight in traditional dishes with local flavor or come for some aloha during Filipino First Fridays featuring a special street-food menu and fun activities like karaoke.
Popular Chef Joey dishes include Balai Pata Palabok, a seafood medley with rice noodles swimming in coconut-lime broth; Balai Pata Lumpia, an artful blending of carrots, garlic, ginger and cabbage in a mélange of soy, oyster and spiced vinegar sauces; Crispy Pata, braised pork knuckle deep-fried with soy chili and sawsawan; and assorted sabao-guisado, soups and stews such as Balai Pata Sigang (okra, long beans, choy sum, ginger, eggplant in a tamarind broth) and Kare Kare (oxtail stewed in peanut sauce with shrimp aramang bagagoong). You’ll also find more traditional offerings such as Chow Fun and Garlic Malungay Noodles.
SIP THE SEASON … Taking mixology to new heights, Tikehau Cocktail Lounge in Wailea opened to rave reviews with its tropical twist on classic cocktails such as an Old Fashioned spiked with Hashimoto Farm-grown persimmons or a Kula Country Farms strawberry ice cube afloat in a glass of Negroni. With a seasonal craft cocktail menu reflecting local spirit and ingredient availability, Tikehau Lounge captures the flavors of Polynesia in every sip.
Loosely translated as “peaceful landing,” Tikehau embodies the aloha spirit that makes Maui a new favorite place to land with happy hour specials from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. and mouthwatering “light bites” such as lomi lomi shooters, poisson cru, smoked taro hummus, kalua pork sliders with Fijian curry slaw, ahi and veggie poke, and other delicious offerings.
