Maui Vacation & Travel Planner
Five Holoholo Adventures: For planning your next Maui getaway—where to go, what to do, where to eat, whom to call
Shannon Wianecki
Locals Share their Secrets with Us
Stir a little adventure into your next Maui vacation. Whether it’s a single day off of work or the anniversary you’ve saved up for, do something you wouldn’t ordinarily do. Step out of your comfort zone. Let the mud squish between your toes. After all, that’s what a vacation is: the chance to depart from your personal beaten path. Now I’m not saying hop over the next fence plastered with “No Trespassing” signs, like a certain revealing guidebook advises. I’m suggesting something even more outrageous: talk to a stranger. That’s right. Ask the next Maui resident passing by where he or she likes to go holoholo. (That’s Hawaiian for get out and about.) Most locals love to share their secrets; they’re just not asked anymore. Everyone’s an expert now, thanks to Trip Advisor and aforementioned guidebooks. But information technology is no excuse for acting like Charlie Brown’s know-it-all friend Lucy. Hey, I grew up here. It’s a small island and there are plenty of great spots I don’t know about. So I put my own advice to the test. I asked several kama‘aina what they like to do on their days off. Read on to discover five local adventures worth trying—the loosely kept secrets of Maui residents.
#1 Bike K¯eokea
What you’ll see: breathtaking views, purple morning glories, cowboys, life in the slow lane
What to bring: bike or running shoes, camera, cash for church sales, light jacket
Some of us use vacations to finally visit our neglected exercise routine. If that’s you, grab your trainers and head Upcountry. When you come to the fork in Kula Highway at the tiny town of Keokea, head left up to heavenly Thompson Road. Breathe deep. The air is sweet and cool, and a little thin. Fall in line with the other joggers and bikers chasing lazy mynah birds from the road. Just shy of 3,000 feet above the coastline, you can see the whole shebang—from Kanaha to Kanaio. Set your camera to panoramic. Follow the smooth-paved, undulating road past Thompson ranch, where modern-day paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys) saddle up horses just as they did 50, even 150 years ago. This is one spot on Maui where blessed little has changed.
Afterwards, stretch your legs with a meditative walk around the labyrinth at St. John’s Episcopal Church (8992 Kula Hwy.). Across the street, bright flowers decorate Our Lady Queen of Angels (9177 Kula Hwy.). Watch for church sales, where you can sometimes score vintage aloha prints and plantation-era tools. Hula dancers shimmying across colorful canvases will draw you into Keokea Gallery (9230 Kula Hwy., 808-878-3555, www.keokeagallery.com). Scoop up original artwork—hand-stamped whales and erupting volcanoes—for as little as $20.
Refuel with water and snacks at Ching Store (9212 Kula Hwy., 808-878-1556). Mrs. Florence Ching has supplied the neighborhood with gasoline, candy, fresh flowers, and smiles for the past 40 years. (The same can’t be said for the ornery billy goat in the neighboring yard.) At Grandma’s Coffee House (153 Kula Hwy., 808-878-2140) you won’t be the only one in dressed in sweat and spandex—well, at least
sweat. Sidle up next to ranch hands in line for eggs and toast and a hot cup o’ joe. Enjoy a thick slice of pumpkin bread on the lanai, shaded by a few coffee trees poking through the decking. Or, you can head a few miles down to Sun Yat Sen Park (Mile 19, ‘Ulupalakua Rd.). Growling Foo dogs guard the entrance to this terrific picnic spot overgrown with peach and fig trees. A commemorative statue honors the contributions of Kula’s early Chinese farmers, particularly one farmer whose brother, Sun Yat Sen, helped overthrow the Manchu Dynasty to become China’s first president.
Don’t want to leave? Stay at: Star Lookout (822 Thompson Rd., Keokea, 907-346-8028, www.starlookout.com). This idyllic cottage sleeps six and has an unbeatable view of Maui—complete with hot tub and bonfire pit.
